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How To Choose And Work With Patterns

 

There are two types of sewing patterns to choose from: printed sewing patterns, which have all guide line directions printed on the pattern, and perforated sewing patterns, which have little holes, or perforations, usually in three sizes.

Before you choose a sewing pattern, consider first your ability to sew.

If you are a beginner, do not start with a gar­ment that has difficult lines and a great many details. Choose a style suitable for your knowledge, skill, and needs. Buy a skirt pattern by the size of your waist, and a blouse or dress pattern by the size of your bust. The usual measurements for women's sizes are shown in the chart above.

Buying according to bust measurement is very important, for it is much easier to alter the waist and hips than it is to change the bust. If your bust is 33, most often a 16 pattern, which is cut for a 34 bust, will be your best choice. Commercial pat­ terns are cut a size smaller than ready-to-wear garments.

All your measurements should be taken very carefully, and written down. Do not hold the tape too tightly.

Check the style version you are going to make on the outside of the envelope, then take out the guide sheet, and find what pieces you will need for this version.

Take them out and get ready to alter the pattern to fit you. It's a rare person who will be perfectly fitted without some changes. The whole problem in fitting is to adjust material to the rounded lines of the body. Since you cannot slash into the fabric, you must alter the paper pattern.

To measure the pattern, pin in all darts, tucks, pleats, etc. Pin the front and back bodice pieces together at the side seam, one over the other, flat. Do the same with the skirt pieces, and pin them together at the waistline. Be careful to note seam al­ lowances, and special margins on some patterns. Do not in­ clude them in your measuring.

Measure the pattern from cen­ ter front to center back along the waist seam line, through the fullest part of the bust, at the hips seven inches below the waist, and at all other measurements on the chart above.

Com­ pare these with your own measurements, but remember that you are measuring only half the pattern.

In addition, you must have additional allowances for ease, usually three inches for the bust and hips, one inch for the waist, ½ inch at elbow and front and back waist length.

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