1) In buying fabric, examine samples as carefully as possible.
2) Study labels, and where you do not see a label, ask for one anyway. Sometimes it has fallen off the bolt.
3) Crush the cloth in your hand, hold it up to the light, grasp it gently with both hands and pull it to test slippage. Look for evidence of shrink age control on labels.
4) "Pre-shrunk" or "shrink proof’ on a label may mean nothing at all. The "Sanforized" label guarantees shrinkage of not more than 1%, an amount that will not affect the fit of the garment. A label should give a maximum shrinkage guarantee. In gen eral, loosely woven materials shrink more than firmly woven ones.
5) Colorfastness is very important to the fabric shopper. The term "colorfast" alone is better than no guarantee at all, but it is more reassuring if it says colorfast to sunlight, or to washing, or to perspiration. Dyes guaranteed not to fade under one condition may under others. If there is no information available, try out a sample by washing, boiling, and exposing to strong sunlight. Be sure to buy washable notions for wash able garments. Vat dyes are best for cottons.
6) Two-ply and three-ply yarns are stronger than singles, and give evidence of better quality. So do combed yarns. For durability, avoid novelty weaves and stick to plain or twill weaving.
7) Yarn-dyed fabrics hold color better than piece-dyed ones. Look for balanced thread count, one with same or al most the same number of yarns in each direction; for example, an 80 square percale. This means 80 warp and 80 filling threads in one square inch. With silks, look for label "pure silk," or "pure dye silk."
8) If you buy a washable fabric that has not been pre-shrunk, shrink it yourself by placing the folded material in cool or lukewarm water for several hours. Dry it and press. Allow an ex tra ¼ yard for shrinkage when buying. Do this before beginning the project.
9) For a wool fabric that has not been sponged, to pre-shrink it, allow an extra ⅛ of a yard, and roll it in a wet sheet. Allow it to stay over night, then hang it carefully and allow it to dry. Press if necessary.
